Yearly Archives: 2010

RECIPE – Southern Comfort Red Velvet Cake from The Boozy Baker

Lucy Baker, author of The Boozy Baker: 75 Recipes for Spirited Sweets (click here to see a separate post ) shares this recipe involving the famously sweet southern elixir in its name.

Southern Comfort Red Velvet Cake

Southern Comfort Red Velvet Cake

This sugary whiskey lends itself to baking, yielding a subtle hint of whiskey without overpowering the other flavors. What could be more Southern or comforting than incorporating it into red velvet cake? —Lucy Baker

Makes 12 to 16 servings or 24 cupcakes

For the cake:

3 cups cake flour

4 tablespoons cocoa powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup Southern Comfort

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon white vinegar

1 (1-ounce) bottle red food coloring

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

2 cups granulated sugar

3 large eggs

For the frosting:

14 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

6 to 8 cups confectioners’ sugar

1/4 cup milk

1/4 cup Southern Comfort

Chopped toasted pecans, for garnish (optional)

To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two 9-inch round cake pans with butter, or spray them with nonstick spray. Dust them with flour and tap out the excess.

Whisk together the cake flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, Southern Comfort, vanilla, vinegar, and food coloring.

In a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar with an electric mixer until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the flour mixture alternately with the milk mixture in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour.

Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cakes comes out clean. Let the cakes cool in the pans on a wire rack, and then remove them from the pans and cool completely.

To make the frosting: Beat the butter in a large bowl with an electric mixer for about 2 minutes. Add 6 cups of the confectioners’ sugar, the milk, and the Southern Comfort. Beat on low speed until creamy. Gradually add the remaining confectioners’ sugar, a little at a time, until the frosting has reached the desired consistency.

Place one cake layer on a plate and spread it with about one-third of the frosting. Top with the remaining cake layer and spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides of the cake. Sprinkle the cake with chopped pecans, if using.

Shake It Up: For a bolder flavor, substitute Tennessee whiskey, such as Jack Daniels, for the Southern Comfort.

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Excerpted with permission from The Boozy Baker: 75 Recipes for Spirited Sweets by Lucy Baker, published in 2010 by Running Press, a division of the Perseus Books Group; (215) 567-5080.

RECIPE – Beer Profiteroles from The Boozy Baker

Lucy Baker, author of The Boozy Baker: 75 Recipes for Spirited Sweets (click here to see a separate post) shares this recipe involving that most basic of alcoholic beverages, beer.

Beer Profiteroles with Chocolate-Beer Sauce

Beer Profiteroles with Chocolate-Beer Sauce

If this recipe seems a bit intimidating, crack open a cold one before tackling the first step. The end results—scoops of beer ice cream nestled in pastry puffs and dripping with beer-infused chocolate sauce—are well worth it. If you’re short on time, substitute store-bought coffee or vanilla ice cream for homemade. Or, for a dessert Homer Simpson would love, use purchased donut holes in place of the puff pastry. The ice cream can be made up to five days ahead, and the profiteroles will keep well for a day or two stored in an airtight container. —Lucy Baker

Makes 6 servings

For the beer ice cream:

2 1/2 cups heavy cream

1 1/2 cups milk

5 large egg yolks

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 cup (8 ounces) chocolate stout, or other dark beer

For the profiteroles:

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup whole milk

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

3 large eggs

For the chocolate beer sauce:

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1 cup heavy cream

1/3 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons chocolate stout

To make the beer ice cream: Combine the heavy cream and milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is barely simmering (you will see steam rising from the surface, and small bubbles at the edge of the pan). Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

In a medium mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sugar and salt until thick and pale yellow. Very slowly whisk 1/4 cup of the hot cream mixture into the egg mixture to temper it. Then transfer the egg mixture to the saucepan with the rest of the cream mixture and return to medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 to 6 minutes, or until the mixture has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon without running.

Remove the saucepan from the heat and strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Add the vanilla extract and stout. Chill for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight and freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

To make the profiteroles: Preheat the oven to 425ºF and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine 1/2 cup water, milk, butter, and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the flour, and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan. Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl and allow it to cool slightly. Using an electric mixer, beat in the eggs, one at a time.

Spoon the mixture into a large, zip-top plastic bag and snip off one of the corners. Squeeze 12 mounds of dough onto the baking sheet, spacing them an inch or two apart. Bake until puffed and golden, about 22 minutes. Turn off the oven, set the door slightly ajar, and allow the profiteroles to rest for another 5 minutes.

Remove the profiteroles from the oven and prick each one with a toothpick to allow steam to escape. Let them cool completely on a wire rack.

To make the chocolate-beer sauce: Place the chocolate in a medium bowl. Combine the cream and sugar in a small saucepan and heat over medium-low heat until just barely simmering. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and stir until the chocolate melts. Stir in the stout.

To assemble the dessert, cut each profiterole in half crosswise. Place a scoop of ice cream on the bottom half of the profiterole and sandwich with the top. Drizzle generously with the chocolate-beer sauce and serve.

Shake It Up: Substitute another richly flavored beer, such as India Pale Ale, for the stout.

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Excerpted with permission from The Boozy Baker: 75 Recipes for Spirited Sweets by Lucy Baker, published in 2010 by Running Press, a division of the Perseus Books Group; (215) 567-5080.

RECIPE – Fig Hazelnut Frangipane Tart from Sweet Life Patisserie

Sweet Life Patisserie of Eugene, Oregon (click here to see an earlier post) agreed to share this fig tart recipe with Bakery Boy Blog readers.

Fig Hazelnut Frangipane Tart (photo by Becky Luigart Stayner)

It was love at first sight. A memorable first bite sealed the deal. By the second bite—a dizzying blend of the delicately mushy fruit, an earthy nuttiness, and a sweet apricot glaze, all spread like a romantic picnic on a slightly crunchy bed of shortbread—I was contemplating a long and satisfying relationship. By the third bite of Fig Hazelnut Frangipane Tart from Sweet Life Patisserie, I wanted to try baking one myself at home.

Luckily, Catherine Reinhart and Cheryl Reinhart, the two sisters who own and operate this terrific bakery in Eugene, Oregon, were willing to share. Turns out it’s fairly easy to make.

“You can even substitute other fruits and nuts,” Catherine says. “Apples, cherries, cranberries, and pears (even canned pears) work as well as figs. You can switch from hazelnuts to pistachios, almonds, or walnuts. My personal favorite combinations are fig-hazelnut, pear-walnut, cranberry-pistachio, and cherry-almond.”

Thanks, Sweet Life, for the inspiring recipe. If my attempt doesn’t work out as pretty as yours, which seems likely, I’ll just come back and get more Fig Tart from you!

Bakery Boy

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Fig Hazelnut Frangipane Tart (serves 6-8)

Shortbread crust (makes one 9-inch tart)
– 1 cup flour
– ¼ cup sugar
– 4 oz cold salted butter, cut into small chunks

Combine flour, sugar and butter until dough comes together. Press or roll into a 9” fluted tart tin. Bake until light brown, about 25 minutes.

Hazelnut Frangipane Filling
– 4 oz salted butter at room temperature
– ½ cup sugar
– 1 cup finely ground hazelnuts
– 1 egg plus 1 yolk
– 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
– 1 to 2 pints of fresh figs

Whip butter and sugar until light. Add nuts, eggs and vanilla extract. Beat until fluffy. Smooth into baked shortbread shell. Slice figs in half and arrange artfully on top of frangipane filling. Bake 25-30 minutes or until golden. Let cool.

Apricot Glaze
– 2 to 3 tablespoon apricot jelly

Warm jelly and brush it over top of tart.

Serve at room temperature with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

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Recipe reprinted with permission from Sweet Life Patisserie, 755 Monroe Street, Eugene, OR 97402; www.sweetlifedesserts.com 541-683-5676

Photos by Becky Luigart Stayner of Sunny House Studio

Sweet Life Patisserie, Eugene, OR

 

Two sisters live the sweet life making treats to moan for, including a cake whose name some hesitate to say aloudChocolate Orgasm.

by Bakery Boy — photos by Becky Luigart Stayner

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Catherine (left) with Chocolate Orgasm Cake, Cheryl with Organic Blackberry Custard Tart.

“Women will come in and say they want that… you know… that chocolate cake with the… you know… and then they’ll raise their eyebrows up and down because they don’t want to say the word.” That’s baker Catherine Reinhart of Sweet Life Patisserie describing how some customers have a hard time asking outright for the popular Chocolate Orgasm Cake.

It’s a fantastic cake, though maybe not quite literally up to its stimulating name. The anecdote helps define the playful attitude at this splendid desserts shop run by Catherine and her sister, Cheryl, in the free-spirited Whiteaker Community a few blocks west of downtown Eugene, Oregon.

Organic Blackberry Custard Tart

“We have fun making up new desserts to please people,” Catherine says. “That one gets a lot of attention because of the name. We also make Love Truffles, mixing in herbs and spices that are known aphrodisiacs, such as sarsaparilla, ginger, cinnamon, cayenne, kava-kava, and something called horny goat weed. Don’t get me wrong—we’re not just that kind of bakery. We make all kinds of cakes, pies, cheesecakes, tarts, and pastries beyond the two that raise eyebrows.”

So what’s in a Chocolate (you know) Cake? “It’s a layer of chocolate fudge cake drizzled with orange syrup, a layer of vanilla custard, a layer of chocolate mousse, a layer of blood orange and white chocolate butter cream frosting on top, and chocolate ganache spread on the side,” says Catherine, who holds one of the delights in a photo here.

 

Sweet Life is a popular neighborhood hangout.

BONA FIDE GOOD I first heard about and Sweet Life from Randi Bjornstad, a longtime reporter and former food columnist for Eugene’s daily newspaper, The Register Guard. “They make some of the most incredible desserts and some of the most beautiful and rich confections in Eugene or maybe anywhere,” she tells me. “The cakes are especially good, but so are the breakfast pastries, cheesecakes, pies, cookies, brownies, gelato, and sorbet. They also sell vegan and health-oriented goodies. The place is totally an institution around here.”

 

 

Catherine drizzles chocolate ganache on a caramel shortbread tart.

SISTERS STORY The Reinhart siblings grew up in Ohio baking and cooking with their mother. “Ever since we got an Easy Bake Oven as little girls, I tended to bake sweets and Cheryl took more to the savory side,” Catherine says. “We later worked in some restaurants together. We went to college in Massachusetts and New York—she studied government, I studied French—and ended up with degrees we didn’t use. But spending time in France, I discovered the true passion people there have for baking high quality desserts at wonderful little patisseries that are on almost every corner. The experience led me to what I do at Sweet Life.”

Not right away, though. “We bounced around some,” Catherine says. “We worked as cooks on a fishing boat in Alaska. It was crazy, being tossed around in a narrow little galley. After four month at sea, we took all of our earnings, plus a few thousand more dollars invested by our parents, and in 1993 started a little cake business.”

Great options make choosing a (pleasant) challenge.

They remodeled a garage at Catherine’s and Cheryl’s modest home in Eugene into a commercial kitchen. From making just a few cakes at a time to an increasingly busy schedule of crafting elaborate wedding cakes after word got around about how good the sisters were, Sweet Life lasted six years there. In 1999 they moved into the current retail location a few blocks away, in 2004 they added a production facility across the street, and they gradually added staff to reach today’s workforce of 60.

Chocolate Ganache Silk

FROM SCRATCH “We only use the best ingredients,” Catherine insists. “Our desserts are made from scratch, inspired by the French. We might make our éclairs and sweet rolls bigger—that’s the American way—but they’re done right. That’s what distinguishes us.”

Everything is gorgeous too: Carrot Cakes loaded with walnuts and raisins. Strawberry Champagne Chiffon Cakes filled with strawberry mouse and drizzled with champagne syrup. Cheesecakes perched on graham cracker or chocolate cookie crusts. Fruit tarts featuring a base of almond or hazelnut frangipane or spread with smooth custard and covered with raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, pears, or figs. Prim petit fours. Ham-and-cheese filled croissants. Merrily iced cutout cookies. Creations called “Booze Balls” and “Nipples of Venus” (hmm, do people have trouble asking for those by name too?)

Coconut Cream Pie

“For me the best thing about baking is being creative,” Catherine says. “Whether I’m coming up with new pastries, decorating cakes, arranging a display case, or deciding to put raspberries on top the coconut cream pies, being creative keeps me going.”

All smiles at Sweet Life Patisserie

MEETING SPECIAL NEEDS Sweet Life caters to just about every special dietary need imaginable. “In Eugene everyone seems to have a special interest in eating healthy,” Catherine says. “They’ll say they need gluten-free or dairy-free for allergies, or sugar-free for diabetes, or animal-product-free for vegans, and I’ll say, ‘We have that!’ We make a lot of desserts without eggs, dairy, or animal products. We make wheat-free cakes. We make gluten-free fillings and frosting (except for custards). We use hormone-free dairy, natural flavorings, expeller-pressed oil, fair-trade and pesticide-free vanilla, trans-fat-free organic palm shortening, and some organic and locally grown produce. Basically we like making things people will love to eat.”

Everyone likes a cookie.

One category Sweet Life doesn’t cover is bread. “I realized early on that bread-making takes a whole different set of skills and equipment, and I decided to stick with cakes and pastries,” she says. “If you want fantastic bread in Eugene, get it from Hideaway Bakery behind Mazzi’s Restaurant, where they really know what they’re doing.” (Note to self: Must check out Hideaway Bakery at the next opportunity for another Bakery Boy Blog post.)

LOVE THY NEIGHBORHOOD Sweet Life has become a popular hangout where customers linger over decadent sweets and healthy variations while sipping earth-friendly organically grown coffees and teas. “I love this neighborhood,” Catherine says. “The Whiteaker Community is so funky and bohemian. You see all kinds of people—hippies, grandmas, little kids, artists, University of Oregon students, and everyone else—mixing together. Plus I can walk three blocks from home and be here, which is hard to beat.”

If her positive attitude ever flags and she needs a little pick-me-up, there’s always a slice of—go ahead, say the name aloud—Chocolate Orgasm Cake!

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WHERE Sweet Life Patisserie, 755 Monroe Street, Eugene, OR 97402

WHEN Monday-Friday 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Saturday-Sunday 8 a.m.-11 p.m.

 

INFO www.sweetlifedesserts.com or 541-683-5676

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Fig Hazelnut Frangipane Tart

Photography by Becky Luigart Stayner of Sunny House Studio.

 

Recipe alert: Sweet Life Patisserie graciously agreed to share its recipe for Fig Hazelnut Frangipane Tart (seen at right) with readers of the Bakery Boy Blog. Click here for the recipe.

Simple Kneads, Greensboro, NC

Gorgeous loaves

Duck down an alley, step through a screen door, and feast your senses on simply beautiful breads and pastries.

story & photos by Bakery Boy

[UPDATE: Sadly, Simple Kneads closed on August 19, 2011, the victim of a sluggish economy. It will be missed. The Bakery Boy Blog and its readers wish owner Bill Snider and his staff the best for whatever their future holds.]

A narrow courtyard leads to Simple Kneads.

Technically it’s not an alley but a courtyard you duck down to find Simple Kneads. The narrow passage squeezes between two buildings, lending a sense of secrecy to this artisan bakery tucked just off South Elm Street in downtown Greensboro, North Carolina. Come to think of it, the artistic metal gate you pass through, a couple of small tables and chairs for lingering, some over-sized planters, and brick walls peeking from under chipped plaster create a certain “hidden European café” ambiance even before you reach the actual bakeshop.

Well-stocked bread shelves at Simple Kneads inspire awe among bread lovers. Photos by Bakery Boy.

BREATH IT IN Once inside Simple Kneads the full impact hits you—the steamy atmosphere and yeasty aroma of slow-developing Old World-style breads. A tall display case of crusty brown loaves behind the counter catches your eyes. Hefty round portions of Cranberry Walnut, Harvest Curry, and Parmesan Walnut. Football-shaped Asiago Peppercorn, Five Seed, and Olive. Squared-off Ciabatta. Braided Challah. Flat Focaccia. Slender Baguettes poking vertically from wicker baskets. If your timing is right, you’ll also find Garlic Rosemary, Russian Black, Cinnamon Raisin, Jewish Rye, Rustic Farm, and even a bread called Spelt, which hardly anyone makes anymore from a somewhat rare but healthy-for-you strain of wheat. Almost all the breads are priced at or just under $5.

Employee Laura Bauer transfers some fresh Challah.

SWEETS TOO Pull your eyes away from that amazing collection of breads to find the sweeter side of Simple Kneads in a pair of glass showcases. Muffins, scones, almond horns, croissants, strudel, turnovers, Danish, brownies, granola bars, cookies, éclairs, lemon bars, and the day’s quiche compete for shelf space during late-morning prime time, then gradually thin out as the day wears on and the goodies disappear.

FIND YOUR NICHE Vegan desserts such as gooey raspberry brownies or chocolate chip cookies made with ground flax seeds—plus gluten-free treats for people allergic to wheat—attract devoted niche audiences. Organic ingredients and recipes declared trans-fat-free and preservative-free draw health-conscious regulars. A preference for eggs and dairy products bought directly from nearby farms satisfies backers of the buy-local school of thought. All these traits—along with the generally laid-back attitude of nearly everyone working there and much of the clientele—make Simple Kneads a to-go spot for in-the-know Greensboro residents. Lucky visitors either hear about it word-of-mouth or stumble upon it by following their noses.

MANNING THE OVEN Ohio-born owner Bill Snider—once a college classmate of Barack Obama, for years a journalist covering education issues while based in Washington, D.C., and San Francisco, and an editor for The George Lucas Education Foundation started by the creator of Star Wars—knew he was ready for a career change when, as he says, “I learned to bake partly as a way to procrastinate from writing.” With his now-former wife Ann, a fashion apparel engineer, he moved to North Carolina from California’s Bay Area. “Out there you find great bread available everywhere from bakeries like Acme Bread Company, Semifreddi’s Bakery, and Grace Baking,” he says. “Here we found nothing like that. So I bought the best bread-making book available at the time, Daniel Leader’s Bread Alone: Bold Fresh Loaves From Your Own Hands, and kept baking until I started making breads I liked.”

He sold his homemade bread at a local farmer’s market, where chefs discovered his loaves and soon served them in their restaurants. A small rented workspace, minimal equipment bought on eBay, and initial ingredients funded by a friend’s loan got Simple Kneads started. Today Bill oversees a bigger and better facility and additional staffers who produce a much-expanded menu that has grown beyond his early devotion to breads.

“Simple Kneads lets me give back to my community on a much more ‘micro’ level than journalism did,” Bill says. “We provide simple, healthy food made from scratch and using as many local and/or organic ingredients as possible. We offer a fulfilling workplace. And we make people happy. So, life is good.”

Being slightly hidden makes Simple Kneads even more of a "find" for bakery fans.

ALL AROUND TOWN Simple Kneads itself might be a little hard to find (hidden behind Mary Contrary, a home-and-garden accessories shop, three blocks south of City Center Park at the heart of downtown at 227-B South Elm Street) but its baked goods reach a variety of outlets in and around Greensboro, including:

Greensboro Farmers’ Curb Market Saturday mornings at 501 Yanceyville Street, Greensboro

The Green Bean coffeehouse at 341 South Elm Street, Greensboro

Bert’s Seafood Grille restaurant at 4608 West Market Street, Greensboro

Deep Roots Market natural foods cooperative at 3728 Spring Garden Street, Greensboro

Bestway Grocery at 2113 Walker Avenue, Greensboro

Krankies Coffee at 211 East Third Street, Winston-Salem

Reynolda Farm Market at 1206 Reynolda Road, Winston Salem

WHERE Simple Kneads, 227-B South Elm Street, Greensboro, NC 27403 (three blocks south of the heart of downtown)

WHEN Store hours Monday-Friday 7:30 a.m.-7 p.m., Saturday 7:30 a.m.-5 p.m.

MORE INFO

Simple Kneads: Click here for the Simple Kneads Facebook Page; 336-370-4446

Greensboro area: Greensboro Convention & Visitors Bureau, www.greenboronc.com; (336) 274-2282  or toll free 800-344-2282

Downtown Greensboro: Downtown Greensboro Inc., www.downtowngreensboro.net; 336-379-0060

Winston-Salem: Winston-Salem Visitor Center, www.visitwinstonsalem.com; 336.728.4200 or toll free 866.728.4200

North Carolina: Visit North Carolina, www.visitnc.com; 800-VISITNC

Blueberry Pie in Maine

Love blueberry pie? Find pie nirvana at the Quietside Cafe in Southwest Harbor, Maine.

by Bakery Boy

Blueberry pie in Maine stands tall, like this piece from the Quietside Cafe in Southwest Harbor.

Like many people, I went to coastal Maine to eat lobster and didn’t know until I got there that I’d also entered blueberry-pie-lovers’ heaven. And like a hungry bear that wanders into town, I gorged on both delicacies during a blissful summer visit several years ago. The memory still lingers. My personal benchmark for terrific lobster and transcendent blueberry pie remains Mount Desert Island, home of the rugged Acadia National Park, the famous port town of Bar Harbor, and the lesser-known fishing village of Southwest Harbor, where I believe I achieved pie nirvana.

The art of pie-making extends to sign-making at the Quietside Cafe.

More recently (this summer) my friend Teresa vacationed in Maine with her husband and son and confirmed that it remains a sort of Paradise, Elysian Fields, Valhalla, Shangri-La, Avalon, and Kingdom Come of pie. A loyal follower of the Bakery Boy Blog, Teresa returned home to Alabama raving about those pies.

Though small, the Quietside Cafe can pack in a huge pie-loving crowd.

“At the Quietside Café in Southwest Harbor we ate terrific blueberry pie that was at least four inches high in the center,” she said. “I’ve never seen a fruit pie that huge! They had a good-looking chocolate pie and some other pies too, but we were on a blueberry pie quest and didn’t try anything else, though now I wish we had. At another restaurant, The Captains Galley at Beal’s Lobster Pier, we found blueberry pie made from the same small but really sweet berries that grow in Maine. The crusts at both were slightly sweet and insanely flaky. Those two places—less than a mile apart—serve two of the best pies I’ve ever eaten. They really know how to make ’em up there!”

Now I know two things: One, Maine still holds a deservedly pie-and-mighty place in the universe of pie. Two, I should get back there as soon as possible. Make that three: I have a fresh excuse to call Downeast Maine pie makers and chat.

Piemaker Frances Reed and her daughter Marlena.

FRANCES REED, PIE QUEEN After just three rings I got an answer and asked, May I speak to whoever makes those great blueberry pies at the Quietside Café please?

 

“That’s me,” said Frances Reed, the perky Pie Queen of Downeast Maine, in an accent that recalls her West African roots rather than her husband Ralph Reed’s hometown of Tremont, a hamlet a few miles down the road from the café they own together.”

It’s a pleasure to meet you Frances. What is it about your pies that makes people rave about them?

“The berries have a lot to do with it,” Frances said. “Blueberries grown here in Maine are small but very sweet. They’re loaded with natural sugar so you don’t have to add much processed sugar. You can really taste the difference. We order berries from local growers about four times a week to keep a fresh supply coming.”

And the impressive height of your pies, how do you achieve that?

A whole blueberry pie at Quietside Cafe goes for $27.

“For one thing, I use a lot of filling, at least seven cups of blueberries in each 10-inch pie. To keep it from spilling out as it bakes, the crust has to be pinched tight along the edge.”

A good crust is key to any successful pie. What’s your secret?

“It’s just that—a secret! I’ll tell you this, I make it fresh every day. Pastry dough for pie has to be fresh to work right.”

Blueberry Pie a la Mode.

But the price is no secret, right?

“A slice is $5.75. Served with ice cream, $6.75. A whole pie, $27. About two year ago we started shipping pies all over the country to people who just had to have them, even though the mailing cost is $138 to send two pies overnight in a refrigerated box!”

What other pies to you make?

In fall, Quietside Cafe pies include pumpkin, sweet potato, and chocolate espresso pecan.

“Apple pie is another big seller in summer, the busy season here. In fall we make pecan, pumpkin, and sweet potato pies too. We also bake brownies and cookies. We’re closed from partway through November to partway through April, when it’s cold and rainy here and fewer people visit.”

You don’t sound like you’re from Maine.

“I was born in Ghana in West Africa and grew up there, went to school in London, and lived in Germany for many years. I married Ralph 25 years ago—it’s our anniversary this month—while he was in the U.S. Army. He was in the service for 25 years and then we moved here to his home area. We’ve owned Quietside Café for 14 years.”

What else does the Quietside serve?

“Lobster, crab, pizza, burgers, chowder, soups, sandwiches, salads, ice cream. It’s a small place with six tables and a counter inside, plus five picnic tables and a row of stools outside. In summer the line to get in is pretty long. Just about everyone finishes with pie. I probably make 50 to 60 pies every day.”

Are you having fun?

Frances, Marlena, Ebony, and Ralph Reed at their Quietside Cafe.

“Oh yes! We work hard, but we have a great time. Ralph is here with me and our two daughters practically grew up in the café. Ebony is now an Airman Second Class in the U.S. Air Force, working in logistics, and Marlena is an Army ROTC Cadet.”

What do they want most when they come home?

“Pie, of course!”

 

Great pie...and much more.

WHERE Quietside Café, 360 Main Street, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679 (14 miles southwest of Bar Harbor through the scenic Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island)

 

 

WHEN Open most days 11 a.m.-10 p.m. from late April through mid-November (all subject to change)

INFO Call 207-244-9444 or click here for the Quietside Café’s Facebook Page

 

Lobster boats dot the Maine coast.

AREA INFO Get more from National Park Acadia (a commercial site maintained by Downeast Directions, not the actual National Park’s site); from Captain D’s Ports Downeast; and from the Maine Office of Tourism (call 1-888-624-6345)

 

Beal's Lobster Pier in Southwest Harbor.

HONORABLE MENTION According to my pie-questing pal Teresa, the blueberry pie at The Captains Galley at Beal’s Lobster Pier, three-quarters of a mile from Quietside Café, is also among the best on pie-intensive Mount Desert Island, which we’ve taken to calling Mount Dessert Island for good reason. I missed reaching the owners because they’d already closed and headed south for the winter. My suggestion: Try pie at both places—and any others you find in the area—then decide for yourself.

SHARE YOUR FAVORITE PIE? If you’ve found nirvana-inducing pie in Maine or anywhere else, leave a comment below and share the details with the Bakery Boy Blog.

Brick Street Cafe, Greenville, SC

“Even I don’t know the secret recipe for my sweet potato pie and sweet potato cake,” says ukulele-strumming restaurateur and baker Sara Wilson.

story & photos by Bakery Boy

Sara Wilson serenades a sweet potato pie at her Brick Street Cafe. Photos by Bakery Boy.

Some of the best sweet potato pie and sweet potato cake you’ll ever taste comes from Brick Street Café, an adventuresome restaurant with a bakery in its basement in Greenville, South Carolina. Just don’t ask owner Sara Wilson for the recipe, because it’s so secret even she doesn’t know it. “I know absolutely everything about everything else in my restaurant and my bakery,” Sara says firmly, adding as an aside that the two-level brick structure with squeaky wooden floors in the West End Historic District was originally a belt factory. “But I don’t know the secret mixture used in the two desserts we’re best known for.”

This historic-district building once held a belt factory.

Here’s why, a story that has become a running joke for family members and Brick Street Café employees alike. Sara tells it while lounging on a garden-like back porch that serves as a waiting area, a break room, and her de facto office as she strums a ukulele and smiles, carefree clues that she’s not particularly bothered by being left out of this well-guarded secret.

"The sweet potato cake has practically an entire sweet potato pie mixed into it," Sara says.

“My husband Jim, who is a cabinet builder, got a recipe for sweet potato pie filling from one of his aunts,” Sara explains. “He comes here about three times a week to whip up big batches of the basic mixture. I’ve tried and tried to get him to tell me what all’s in it, so I can make it myself. But he always says—tongue in cheek, I think—‘No way! If you had that, you wouldn’t need me around anymore!’ ” So keeping the mixture mysterious is a form of husband-job-security for Jim. “The funny thing is,” she says, “for 15 years I’ve been taking all the credit for our most popular desserts, even though I couldn’t make them without Jim and his aunt’s recipe.”

Try a slice of each, for good measure.

CAKE TOO She certainly knows how the cake version came into being, since that was her idea. “I make a coconut cake that I learned from my neighbor more than 30 years ago,” Sara says. “One day in the kitchen, Jim was making his sweet potato pie mixture over where I couldn’t watch very closely, and I started to wonder what would happen if I added some of it to the yellow cake batter I use for coconut cake and then put some cream cheese icing on it. I tried it, and the results turned out to be very popular with our clientele.”

A festive mishmash of styles brightens Brick Street Café.

OTHER TREATS Besides sweet potato pie ($18.95/whole pie, $3.95/slice) and sweet potato cake ($37.95/large, $29.95/medium, $21.95/small, $4.25/slice), Brick Street Café also makes pineapple cake, 4-layer German chocolate cake, carrot cake, peanut butter cake, and more—all sold in-house by the slice and most available to go in several sizes. Also worth trying: blueberry pie and no-sugar-added apple pie. Although the bakery at Brick Street Café fits the “life is short, eat dessert first” school of thought, traditionalists might want to eat lunch or dinner before rewarding themselves. The eclectic menu ranges from fresh fruit plates, fried green tomatoes, and grilled salmon on mixed greens salad with roasted corn salsa, to roasted turkey hero or oyster po’ boy sandwiches, filet mignon with crab cake, sautéed shrimp and Andouille sausage on creamy grits, or vegetarian lasagna featuring spinach, zucchini, mushrooms, cheese, and marinara sauce. Hungry yet?

MUSIC NEXT DOOR The latest venture for Sara and Jim Wilson is Stella’s Music Emporium, located adjacent to their bustling restaurant and bakery. “Stella’s focuses on vintage stringed instruments, something that attracts the musician in me and the woodworker in Jim,” Sara says, still strumming her ukulele. “We hold live music happening, offer music lessons, stock vintage clothing and jewelry, and sell artwork that involves musical instruments in one way or another.”

WHERE Brick Street Café, 315 Augusta Street, Greenville, SC 29615

WHEN 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 5:30 – 9:30 p.m. Thursday-Saturday

MORE INFO

Brick Street Café at www.brickstreetcafe.com or 864-421-0111

Stella’s Music Emporium at www.stellasme.com or 864-232-5221

Greenville Visitors Center at www.greenvillecvb.com or 864-233-0461 (for more about the city)

Discover Upcountry Carolina Association at www.theupcountry.com or 864-233-2690 or 800-849-4766 (for more about the northwest corner of South Carolina)

Cake Knife Tips

“Psst! Hey, Joe, bring your knife, it’s almost time to sing.” Why I always keep a cake knife handy at the office.

story & photos by Bakery Boy

At every office I’ve worked in, I’ve been the go-to guy for cutting cakes. Whenever there’s a birthday, promotion, engagement, newborn, retirement, or just Friday to celebrate, one co-worker or another swings by my desk, tells me in a stage whisper of a party about to happen, and says to grab my knife and come along.

Known for being raised in a bakery, I’ve gotten used to this. It’s a good reputation to have because I get to eat cake often. So I always keep a cake knife in my top drawer.

My training was entirely informal, the result of growing up surrounded by cakes at every stage of their life-cycle, from batter to slices. Ever since I can remember I pitched in at my family’s bakeshop to mix, pour, bake, cool, stack, frost, decorate, and even deliver cakes, plus I helped cut and serve cakes at home or at wedding, anniversaries, ribbon-cuttings, and other events we catered. I know a few tricks, yes, but for this essay I decided to seek an expert’s opinion.

No actual cake is necessary for knife wizard Susan Green to show how to cut thinner layers using a turntable and a pair of knives she has had since 1981.

PROFESSIONAL HELP So I contacted Susan Green, owner of Birmingham Bake and Cook Company. Susan loves knives and teaches a monthly kitchen knife skills class. A Culinary Institute of America graduate with 35 years of experience in the food industry—including purchasing equipment for countless restaurants from Boston to San Francisco to Manhattan—she knows all about cake knives.

Susan invited me to her kitchen-supplies store, where she and various guest chefs teach two culinary classes each week. She had new knives still in their wrappers to show me plus a venerable pair she’s been using since 1981. “They’ve held up well,” she said.

Susan focuses more on preparation (slicing layers horizontally before frosting them) than on serving (my forté), but she spoke confidently about both. Here are some of her tips:

New knives (left) and a pair Susan had wielded for three decades.

• “There are two kinds of cake knives—serrated and not. Use the serrated knife for less-dense cakes with textures softer inside and harder outside, like birthday and wedding cakes, and for angel food or Bundt cakes with more of a crumb factor. Use the non-serrated knife for denser cakes where there’s less difference between inside and outside textures, like nut-bread or cheesecake.”

• “Choose a knife that’s a couple of inches longer than the cake is wide. A 14-inch blade will handle rounds up to 12 inches or a full sheet; a 10-inch blade works for layers less than 10 inches or a half sheet.”

You want a good scalloped edge.

• “Pick a serrated knife with good scallops, each little curve coming to a point.”

• “You want a thin and flexible blade, not thick or rigid like a chef’s knife.”

• “You don’t want a curved blade for cake. Straight blades cut straighter with less sawing.”

• “You don’t need a sharp tip at the end because you don’t poke into a cake. Let the long edge, serrated or not, do the cutting. Save tipped knives for carving details if you’re creating unusual shapes.”

• “A turntable lets you rotate the cake and not reach out awkwardly. Keep your elbow close to your side, maintain a firm grip, and hold the blade horizontally to get layers of even thickness.”

• “Because you eat with your eyes, uniform thickness is key for good-looking cake layers. It’s not like a chicken, where every piece is different and you need different techniques to cut them.”

CAKE TIME Okay, your co-workers have gathered in an office or conference room, you’ve sung Happy Birthday, and you’re ready to eat. It’s your turn to slice and serve. Here are tips—some Susan’s, some mine—to help you cut cake like a pro.

• Top tip: Be the person with the cake knife, so you always get invited.

• Hot water is vital. If there’s a sink, run the blade under hot water and wipe it with a clean kitchen towel between each cut. Paper towels or napkins will suffice, but they get messy quickly, so keep reaching for new ones.

• No sink? Bring a pitcher of hot water, dip the blade in between cuts, and wipe with a towel. No pitcher? Do your best by wiping the blade each time.

• Never breathe on the blade to warm or polish it. Don’t lick your fingers while serving.

For a more stable grip, place your thumb and index finger firmly on the sides of the blade itself, carefully avoiding the sharp edge.

• Don’t saw through frosting, which will just smear. Press straight down for a nice clean cut.

• Work quickly to get through layers while the knife is warm. This keeps frosting between layers neat instead of smeared.

• On a round cake make the first cut all the way across at the center. Poking a knife tip into the middle first and pulling toward the outer edge is asking for trouble.

• Wash your hands before starting and avoid touching your hair, nose, or anything else. Don’t be that person whose hygiene leaves people wondering if they really want to eat cake after all.

• Avoid touching cake slices. Let wedges fall over if necessary and then slide the wide flat knife under to lift them onto plates. A fork in your other hand helps.

Susan bought these Victorinox cake knives while studying at the Culinary Institute of American in 1981 and she still uses them regularly.

• To really impress, bring a fresh pair of rubber gloves. Keeping an apron handy, well that takes the role too far. You want to be the helpful office-mate, not the one who secretly longs for a different career entirely!

BRAND CONSCIOUS Susan’s store stocks cake knives from Ateco of New York; R.H. Forschner – Victorinox of Switzerland (which makes Swiss Army Knives too); Kuhn Rikon of Switzerland; Messermeister of Germany; Wusthof of Germany; and Shun of Japan—all worth consideration. Prices vary widely, but for the new Ateco knives shown here expect to pay about $17 for the 10-inch or $27 for the 14-inch.

Through know-how, patience, and the right equipment, Susan leads cooks at all levels to better culinary skills.

DON’T BE AFRAID “People are intimidated by knives,” Susan says. “Knife skills are where many home cooks have the least training, and yet it’s the one area that will most improve their experience in the kitchen. That’s why I teach my knife classes once a month. Even those who come again and again learn something new.”

TURN, TURN, TURN About the turntable recommended for preparing cake layers: “Don’t call it a Lazy Susan,” says Susan sternly. I guess no Susan likes that term. And what, I’m going to object while she’s holding a big knife? “I sell a Fat Daddio’s 12-inch plastic turntable with ball-bearing swivel for $12.95,” she says, “and an Ateco 12-inch aluminum cake stand with non-slip pad, ball-bearing revolution system, polished finish, and a 200-pound capacity for $67.95.” See, I told you she knows her stuff.

GOTTA DASH Someone just dropped by and told me to grab my cake knife and come along to a surprise office party for several co-workers who’ve been laid off. It’s not a great cause for celebration, but hey, there’s cake! Now I’m wondering: What song do we sing for people at a layoff party?

INFO Learn more, sign up for classes, or order knives from Susan Green at Birmingham Bake and Cook Company, 5291 Valleydale Road, Birmingham, AL 35242; www.bakeandcookco.com; call 205-980-3661; email info@bakeandcookco.com.

VG’s Bakery, Farragut, TN

 

Thumbprint Cookies. Photo by Andrew Hock.

Everything made from scratch and no compromising on quality are the twin mantras practiced at this excellent bakery west of Knoxville.

by Bakery Boy

“Fresh ingredients are the key to baking from scratch,” says David Gwin. Photo by Bakery Boy.

Just  when you think you know thumbprint cookies, along comes VG’s Bakery to change your whole perspective on the matter. “We make ours four inches in diameter and thicker than most, then load them with icing,” says co-owner David Gwin. “Nobody has a thumb that big, but we call them Thumbprints anyway.” They sell for $1.25 each or $12 for a baker’s dozen. Yes, even as giant as they are and with a discount for buying in volume, VG’s throws in an extra cookie to sweeten the deal. How nice is that?

 

REASONS TO LIKE That’s just one of many reasons to like this bakeshop in suburban Farragut, Tennessee, just west of Knoxville. Others include:

Scones

• Big, soft, moist Lemon Blueberry Scones or Apricot Pecan Scones

• Cream Cheese Sweet Rolls almost the size of a pie pans

• Pies bigger than pie pans because crusts and whipped cream overflow the rims on Key Lime, Chocolate Cream, and Coconut Cream versions

Chocolate Cake

• Layer cakes ranging from Red Velvet to Caramel, Carrot, egg-and-dairy-free Chocolate Fudge, and more

• A series of cookies on the scale of the impressive Thumbprints, including Lemon Iced, Double Chocolate, Oatmeal Raisin, Chewy Ginger, and Peanut Butter

Multigrain Bread

• Pan breads including great-for-toasting English Muffin, hot-on-the-tongue Cheddar Jalapeño Cornbread, and whole-wheat cracked-wheat Multigrain with lots of seeds

• Muffins that rise from baking tins and crack open like blooming flowers full of blueberries or cinnamon or (in those dubbed Morning Glories) with carrots, raisins, cranberry-raisins, walnuts, coconut, and pineapple

Macaroons

• Almond Macaroons, Coconut Macaroons, Chocolate Raspberry Oat Bars, and miscellaneous other goodies that fill showcases depending on the baking staff’s creative mood on any given day

• Because they’re always experimenting with new baked goods, each visit hold the promise of a few pleasant surprises

 

Katie Gwin (left) and her mother Vanessa Gwin. Photo by Bakery Boy.

THE V.G. IN VG’S Vanessa Gwin—a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, a former sous chef, the daughter of a baker, head baker at VG’s (named for her initials), and co-owner along with her Knoxville-native husband David—makes everything from scratch. “That’s something Vanessa insisted on from the beginning, that we’d take no shortcuts and never compromise on quality,” says David, a former consumer-electronics engineer and tool-and-dye salesman who helped her launch VG’s Bakery in 1999. “It all has to be fresh-made from the best ingredients we can find.”

 

Katie with more Thumbprints. Photo by Bakery Boy.

A FAMILY AFFAIR Daughter Katie Gwin has worked with her parents in the bakery since her early teenage years. Now she has a journalism degree from the University of Tennessee and is working toward another degree while still helping at the shop. Son Riley Gwin, a high school senior, is currently “a skateboarding fiend, so we don’t see much of him around the bakery,” David says with a laugh, adding, “but there’s hope!”

FARMERS MARKETS The Gwins set up shop at as many as eight farmers markets each week during the spring-to-fall growing season. “We take some of everything we bake to each one, except for desserts that would melt outside in the heat,” David says. “Cookies and sticky buns sell best because they look good and smell good and can be eaten right out of hand. People also buy a lot of bread to take home to eat along with the produce they get.”

Sticky Buns

David serves as secretary-treasurer of the East Tennessee Farmers Association for Retail Marketing (F.A.R.M.). “That might seem surprising, a baker leading a farm organization,” he says. “But when you think about it, we use a lot of flour, and flour is near the end of a food system that starts with those who plow fields and grow wheat. The same is true for most ingredients.” Markets they stock include:

Multigrain Loaves

Knoxville Farmers Market, Laurel Church of Christ, Knoxville, Tuesdays & Fridays

Market Square Farmers’ Market, Market Square, Knoxville, Wednesdays & Saturdays

New Harvest Park Farmers Market, New Harvest Park, Knoxville, Thursdays

Dixie Lee Farmers Market, Renaissance Shopping Plaza, Farragut, Saturdays

Oak Ridge Farmers Market, Jackson Square, Oak Ridge, Saturdays

 

A salvaged jewelry case adds a special touch. Photo by Bakery Boy.

ABOUT THAT SHOWCASE One long wood-and-glass showcase adds an interesting element to VG’s Bakery. “It’s an awesome antique jewelry case we got for free from a coffeehouse we supplied baked good to that didn’t need it anymore,” David says. “We paid $100 to have it moved and then fixed it up to hold cookies and pastries. Makes a nice touch, don’t you think?”

ALL WORTHWHILE “We’ve been here just long enough that little kids who came in holding their mama’s hands are teenagers now and can drive here on their own,” David says. “They have fond memories of VG’s and get the same treats as always. It’s the kind of thing that makes all the hard work worthwhile.”

LOCATION VG’s Bakery, 11552 Kingston Pike, Farragut, TN 37934. Just west of Knoxville take I-40/75 Exit 373, go south on Campbell Station Road, then west on Kingston Pike to a shopping center on the left anchored by Kohl’s department store. VG’s is squeezed between an H&R Block tax preparation service and a Bahia Tans tanning salon.

HOURS Monday-Friday 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m.-3 p.m.

INFO www.vgsbakery.com or 865-671-8077

[Special thanks to photographer Andrew Hock of www.visualdelicious.com for his close-up images of baked goods.]

Bakery Boy Blog featured in Birmingham Weekly

Bakery Boy (aka Joe Rada). Photo by Owen Stayner.

The Birmingham Weekly newspaper has published a feature story about the Bakery Boy Blog.

Thanks, BW!

Click here to see the story in the September 16-23, 2010, edition.